Hiking Half Dome in Yosemite NP

As you drive into Yosemite, you can't help but wonder if God is an outdoor enthusiast. The lofty granite peaks stand tall and mighty, overlooking the verdant green valley below. Waterfalls cascade hundreds of feet down the sheer cliffs. An unbridled display of nature's grandeur. As John Muir said about Yosemite, “It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature, I was ever permitted to enter.”

The half dome hike was the centerpiece of my trip. Step 1 of a Half Dome hike is to get permits. There is the season lottery and the daily lottery. If neither attempt is successful, try the begging lottery as we did when we were one permit short for our group. We basically asked everyone along the way if they had extra permits. And we eventually found one! If I ever have extra permits, I will put a sign on my backpack saying so, when I hike the trail. I think it would be a crime to let Half Dome permits go unused. The permits are checked just before the sub dome, which is well before the cables. If you don't have a permit, you don't even get a decent view of the Half Dome.

A few pointers to any Half Dome dreamers. Start early to avoid traffic in the valley, to find parking close to the trail head and to avoid crowds at the cables. We reached the parking lot at about 7am. The hike is about 18 miles round trip from the nearest parking lot. It took us about 11 hours including a half hour spent at the top of Half Dome. The Mist Trail is fairly well marked and easy to follow as it snakes along the Merced River. The Vernal Falls and the Nevada Falls, in full flow during the early spring season, painted a beautiful picture. And I love the sound of rushing water. The trail can be strenuous at times. Some people recommend hiking poles. I had them but didn't use them. Take plenty of water and/or a water filter. The last place where you can filter water from a stream is at the Lower Yosemite campground, which is about 4 miles into the hike. The trail is shaded for most part which is a bonus. That is until you get to the sub dome which is exposed granite with a few hardy trees providing some shaded rest points. And the Half Dome itself is completely exposed. Gloves are useful on the cables section to haul yourself up without ripping your palms.

The highlight or the tough part, depending on your perspective, is the cables section. Metal cables along with wooden slats provide for a way up the steep and slippery granite rock face. At some points, the inclination is about 45 degrees I read. You will need some upper body strength to pull yourself up when there is no traction for your feet. You can take your time and rest at the wooden slats which are spaced about 10 feet apart. But you will cause a traffic jam as there is only one way up and down and it is impossible for people to pass you when there are hikers coming down too. So for the sake of all, keep yourself moving. It took me about 20 min to get up. And about 30 min to come down as traffic had picked up significantly by then. It is very safe as long as you don't do anything stupid, like climb when it is wet or go outside the cables.

The views from the top are absolutely gorgeous. Granite hill tops with a smattering of snow as far as the eye can see. Vertical cliffs drop down into the lush valley floor. Evergreens hug the sides of the mountains wherever they can. Streams rush down to the valley floor in the distance. The cool breeze refreshes the weary mind and body as you soak in the exhilarating views This truly is one of nature's grandest monument.

Half dome has to be in the bucket list of every avid hiker. A great challenge with sweet rewards. The only downside in my opinion is that it is a trail that goes out and back, in the sense it is not a loop, unless you take a detour on the John Muir trail towards the end. That means once you are done with the summit, you have to drag your butt 8 miles back down to the trail head along the same trail you had just seen. Maybe that gives you time to ponder upon, to digest the beauty of Yosemite or maybe you can just enjoy the scenery a second time with the sun at a different angle, especially the waterfalls that face west.

The Lonely Planet guide certainly is not kidding when it says that Yosemite makes Switzerland look like God's practice run!

(Bike) Tour the Bay Area

Don't wait to go cross country, go overnight, says Bike Overnights. A long bike tour is my dream vacation. A day will dawn, when I will ride the open road in front me over thousands of miles. But until then, I will have be content with overnight bike tours on weekends.

The SF Bay Area is blessed with gorgeous scenery and pleasant climate that make many bike tour options possible.

I wrote about my first bike tour, Santa Cruz – Monterey – Carmel, last labor day weekend, which was published in Bike Overnights. This route takes you through the farmland and sand dunes of central CA coast. Public transit is available from SJ to Santa Cruz and from Monterey to SJ. It is generally a good idea to go south as the winds tend to be from the north. Veterans park campsite is the best option for a night stop on this trip.

SF to Santa Cruz is a fine touring option too. We started at the SF Caltrain station and followed the waterfront, first due west and then south till we hit Hwy 1, which takes you all the way to Santa Cruz.

The trip is about 90 miles. We stopped for the night at Pigeon Point lighthouse hostel, a fun and affordable place right by the ocean. The hot tub overlooking the ocean is pretty sweet. The hostel has a fully furnished kitchen where you can cook your meals. It's a great place to meet other fun people. And the elegant white lighthouse on a the rocky coast makes for a postcard picture. The scenery along the route, as with all of coastal CA, is beautiful. Farmland, small towns, hills, dunes and beaches. And Swanton Berry Farm in Davenport, with its delicious food and honor payment system is a must visit. Don't forget to catch some surfers in action near the lighthouse in Santa Cruz. The Santa Cruz to SJ bus service is a convenient connection to the south bay to complete the loop.

The SF – Bodega Bay – SF tour takes your through the rolling hills and farms of Marin and Sonoma counties. We headed north through Fairfax and Nicasio, east of Three Peaks in Marin county.

I loved the cozy and rustic feel of the small towns in Marin County. It is a world away from the hustle and bustle of the Bay Area. Cows and sheep grazing on the verdant hills make it perfect picture. A stretch of road through a redwood forest calms the soul. We camped at Doran City Park, a basic but comfortable campsite that has showers. The next day, we headed south along Hwy 1 until Stinson Beach, took the Panaromic Hwy to cut across east to Mill Valley and onto SF. The ride along Tomales Bay and Bolinas lagoon is quite spectacular. And the Panoramic Hwy needs to be given due respect for challenging every muscle and sinew in my body. All in all, a hundred and fifty miles of unending bliss.

Soak in the wine country as you pedal through the storied vineyards of the world famous Napa Valley.

Our tour started with a trip on a ferry from SF to Vallejo. We then headed north towards Napa and hit the Silverado Trail. Miles and miles of bright green vineyards, interspersed with beautiful wineries. Bothe-Napa SP makes for a good stop for the night. It has a hiker/biker site and all facilities. Day two took us east over the hills into Santa Rosa. Hop on a Golden Gtae transit bus to get to SF. This 65 mile trip is great way to see one of the most famous wine producing regions in the world.

Big Sur, a bit of heaven on earth. I had blogged about the Big Sur bike tour with Almaden Cycling and Touring Club. I didn't do this ride as a self supported bike tour. It might be a little too strenuous to bike this loop on a fully loaded bike. But the brave souls who take this one on, will be duly rewarded. Big Sur is definitely one of the most beautiful places I have visited. Take it all in at the relaxed pace of a bike ride.

Some useful tips for aspiring bike tourists. Map your ride using Ride with GPS. This website gives elevation profiles of your route. Your pace will be much slower on a hilly terrain as compared to a flat one. Also check for wind directions as a strong headwind is like a continuous uphill not followed by a downhill. Gear includes a touring bike (or a road bike with a metal frame), panniers, tools and camping gear. I have a Novara Safari touring bike with Ortileb panniers. Go discover the Bay Area, one weekend overnight trip at a time.

Maybe biking is a great idea.

The most efficient car is the one that you don't have and the second most efficient car is the one not in use. For me its the latter as I caved in and bought a car a few months back. But I still bike because it is sustainable. You can protest oil pipelines and offshore drilling with actions that speak louder than words. Even if you don't agree with man made climate change, we can all agree on the other evils associated with drilling and burning oil. From deforestation, to oil spills, wars, acid rain, smog, etc.

And for the I-don't-care-about-wars-and-environment folk, biking is cheap. Driving costs approx 30cents to a mile, whereas biking is virtually free. Some initial investment and once in a while repairs.

It is good for health (will get you those washboard abs :D) as it burns about 10 cals/min. When there is no time to exercise, you know that you exercise for at least a few minutes a day on your commute. Then there is the community aspect. Less noise and smoke from traffic, reduced congestion on streets, pedestrian safety etc. It brings people together. You are no longer insulated from the world in your metal cage. It is good for your mental health as you don't get frustrated with traffic. Parking is usually not an issue.

You reduce parking requirements at shopping centers saving a few square feet from being paved. Imagine the amount of open space we would have if half the parking lots were converted to parks. Or tennis courts! Oh and I get gift certificates for biking to work. Sweet deal eh?

Some practical suggestions if you decide on commuting by bike. Panniers are very handy to avoid carrying backpacks that give you a sweaty back. If biking to work, you may have to take a change of clothes depending on weather, distance and fitness levels. Safety is paramount. I know many people fear getting hit by a car. I wouldn't say unjustified fears, but I think a little overblown. You should ride defensively. You will not win a battle with something 20 times your weight. So don't bother tempting fate. Wear a florescent vest and use front and rear lights to improve your visibility to drivers. Be predictable and try to anticipate the actions of drivers. Don't worry, it becomes second nature after a while. And always wear a helmet. Some practical info for new bikers can be found here.

Biking is a win win win win win situation. And I know that it is much easier to sit in your car and drive away, specially after a long workday. But how much good has come in this world because the easier path was taken? Get out there and put your foot down on a different pedal. Hop on that bike and rediscover the joy of biking. Remember the thrill, the exhilaration, the independence our bikes gave us as kids? Trust me, it is still the same.

Death Valley NP – Explore the Extreme.

It is one of the hottest, lowest and driest places on earth. Death valley has a mesmerizing barren scenery that left me in awe of the desert. It is a serene beauty. Something that has stood the test of time. Unchanging and vast. You feel the force of the sun and hear the silence of the night. You can be alone, with only the wind for company. The myriad rocks colors and formations impress you by day and the countless stars dazzle you by night. Free from light pollution, clean dry air and the high elevations of the mountains makes it one of the best places to gaze at the night sky.

Most of the places to see in Death Valley are at their best at sunrise or sunset, when the gentle and low angle sun rays bring out the colors of the landscape.

Everyday we had a routine to leave campsite before dawn and patiently wait for the sunrise and then in the evening, patiently wait for the sunset. When was the last time you saw the sunrise and the sunset for four consecutive days? And no showers for four days. We lived it up, desert style.

A few pointers about a trip to Death Valley. Food and gas is expensive. So load up on both before you enter. Always carry extra water in the car. Most trailheads don't have water or restrooms. Do the needful at the campsites. The trails are not very well marked. It can be fun to explore your way around, but at the same time be annoying, when you can't find your way.
A four wheel drive, high clearance vehicle is needed to visit some of the places in Death Valley. Listed below is what can be reached with a sedan if you don't mind a mile or two on gravel roads.

Day 1:
Artists drive – Winding road through a rocky landscape. Good way to get up close to the rocky landscape.
Devil's Golf Course - Must see the ragged landscape resulting from erosion of salt flats.
Badwater (sunset) – The lowest point in North America. Brilliant white salt flats.
Camp at Furnace creek - Nice campground, and you get cellphone service here.

Day 2: Zabrinski point (sunrise) – A great place to see the glorious rocky landscape.
Dante's ridge hike – The length of hike depends on how far you wanna go. We hiked to Mt. Perry which is about 4 miles one way and were treated to stunning views of the valleys on either side of the ridge. Good place to escape the 'drive around' crowd.
Harmony Borax works – Visit only if you are in the area. Good for history buffs.
Golden Canyon (sunset) - Easy hike in a canyon lined by bright yellow sandstone walls. Don't forget to scramble up some of the many gullies along the sides.
Camp at Furnace creek.

Day 3: Devils Cornfield (sunrise) – A decent place to catch the sunrise, but shouldn't be top priority.
Rhyolite Ghost town – Definitely not worth the long drive. But gas is cheap at Beatty, a nearby town. So might be worth the drive just to fill up.
Scotty's castle – Fun place, great stories and a nice break from the barren desert landscape. Also, they have a working Pelton Turbine that's 80 years old!
Ubehebe crater (sunset) – Worth it if in the area. Fun to go down the crater walls, but a pain to come back up.
Camp at Stovepipe Wells – Decent campground, but not as nice as Furnace creek.

Day 4 – Mesquite Flat Dunes (sunrise) – Dunes are a must see. Best to catch them when sun is low in the sky to get the shadows. Morning also means footprint free sand patterns.
Mosaic Canyon – More rock colors and formations and a good place for rock scrambling.
Mesquite Flat Dunes (sunset) – Had to see the dunes from a different angle.
Camp at Wildrose campground – A high altitude desolate campground. Best place to enjoy the night sky. Minimal facilities, but has running water.

Day 5 – Charcoal Kilns – Interesting structures, but not much else
Wildrose peak hike – Did partly. Was fun to walk in a winter wonderland in Death Valley!

Thanksgiving Travelogue, Part 2 - What happens in Vegas, comes on my blog!

Thanksgiving in Vegas? Something a bunch of morons or an ultra cool band of merry men would do. Well none of us are married, that means we can’t be the latter which leaves us as the former.

This was supposed to be Santhosh’s bachelor’s party and the Bevel Devils (Nikhil, Nishant, Santhosh and me) took the party to Vegas. I was a little bummed as no one had thrown me a bachelor’s party before I graduated with a masters degree.

We made a list of things to do. Gambling and other sinful things were so passe. This had to be different. How about jogging on the strip, or reading in a cafe, or visiting museums, or sleeping at 10pm, or black friday shopping, or Occuppying Las Vegas? Nah, because everything that is passe or fake, is the in thing in Vegas.

Ok disclaimer, please read further only if you are in Vegas because what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, or maybe Google has saved this blog on a server in Vegas, then you are fine, go ahead read it. The one thing that literally hits you in Vegas are stripper calling cards. Four guys walking in Vegas attract stripper agents like moths to a flame. One even stopped us to explain how it was a family business for him as his father owns the business and his grandfather drives the limo. At least he stopped short and didn’t elaborate on how the strippers were related to him. No, we didn’t check out any girls, we only checked out of the hotel when we left.

We decided to go clubbing! Lots of weirdos around. I wished I had my earplugs to keep the noise out and an oxygen mask to protect my lungs from I-have-no-idea-what. At least it was quite dark inside, I had no idea what was going on around me. Ignorance was bliss. And then there was gambling. I made a few dollars and lost more than I made. I have no idea how slot machines work, and I think no one ever makes money from them. I also played roulette, where at least I knew what was going on. I don’t know why people spend so much money on that game in which the chances of losing are higher than winning in a very obvious sense. I lost my money and stopped playing. Someone suggested I needed to give it more time. I knew better, the more you play a game with a negative mathematical expectation, the higher the odds of ending in the red. Simple math. But then math and logic go out of the window in Vegas.

I liked the posh hotels along the strip. The Venetian took the cake. Canals and boulevards, complete with a fake blue sky, inside the hotel. Amazing! The Cirque Du Soleil was awesome. Some incredible acrobatics and sound and light effects. The stage was mechanical engineering masterpiece with respect to hydraulics and precision.

Vegas is checked off my list. I think I had the best possible group of friends to help me experience and navigate through the awesomeness and weirdness that is Vegas. Vegas is not my cup of tea or shot of tequila. I learned the grass is not greener on the other side (in Vegas it is fake anyways). Sometimes you have to go to the other side to make sure, which is what I did. I am happy with my boring life!