Musings of an Indian Tourist

You may have read or heard about India, or seen pictures and videos, but nothing prepares you for the sea of humanity that greets you as you walk the streets of the big cities. The sights, sounds, smells and tastes can excite, stimulate, inspire and leave you in awe. I soaked it all in like an idli soaking in sambhar. This was my first time as a tourist in India. I had lived in India for most of my adult life, but I had never traveled as a tourist. And what better place to start off my India Diaries than the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Last month, I finally got my chance with three of my best friends.

North India is steeped in history. Stuff I wasn't unaware off, as I had read my history books well. But being there in person and touching the artifacts takes you back in time. You can imagine and relive the glory days of India. Stories of bravery and justice. Legends and tales of war and love. It can instill a sense of pride and a feeling of hope, that maybe India might one day again be the envy of the rest of the world. The highlight for me was the Taj Mahal. It sits on the banks of the Yamuna, serene and beautiful amid all the chaos. You hear it speaking to you, telling you a story. The marble beauty looks delicate, almost fragile as it shimmers in the sun. But you know it has stood there for hundreds of years, standing proud and aloof as eras have come and gone, mesmerizing countless souls who came seeking her beauty. It is truly timeless.

But as a tourist, you are greeted by more than monuments from the past. There are a lot of characters, who for the better or worse, add color to your trip.

The pestering 'guides' – You can ignore, argue or plead with them to leave you alone. Nothing will work. Some look genuinely annoyed when you call them guides. They say there are students. I am not sure how that is supposed to be better. Maybe next time one of us should wear a hoodie that says 'All Purpose Guide' on the back. I wish there were more signs and information at all the historical sights, so that the guides wouldn't circle us like vultures the moment we get out of the car. Pro tip, read everything in advance or get a guide book if you are interested in the details of the places you visit.

The posers – We had a great time observing young guys posing in some outlandish stances. Movie stars would be put to shame. I can say India has a bright or at least a stylish future. On the other hand, the older folk were the grumpy Indians. Not sure if they have all become followers of Tard, the grumpy cat, or if they are unimpressed by digital cameras. Maybe there were used to posing for paintings and I suppose you can't smile for hours on end.

The hawkers – If guides are the appetizer vultures before the trip, hawkers are the desserts. I credit them for being hustlers. They will try to sell cheap plastic as marble, claim that their souvenir changes color when wet (just a darker shade on being asked for evidence), try to guilt you into buying something by saying 'madame likes' by pointing to the lady in the group. A hawker on the road divider took the cake. He tried to sell me underwear while crossing the road. I suppose just in case I soiled myself as that bus hurtled towards me while I crossed the road. And I see how it is good business. I thought I got a good deal on what looked like rare marble carved elephants. He asked for Rs 1500 for each, I got 3 for Rs 2000. This was after I started to walk away and then he called me back. You know, the whole nine yards of bargaining. True to Murphy's Law, I found the same pieces at a reputed fixed price shop (Choki Dhani) for Rs 450 each. I suppose all that badgering and pestering does work on unsuspecting first time tourists.

Guards – They assert their authority either out of frustration stemming from all the the unruly visitors always doing something stupid or out of the hope in squeezing some cash out of you. Planking or doing yoga in front of the Taj is considered disrespectful and one of the guards asked us to delete the pictures and threatened to throw us out. Incessant whistling and yelling with a sour look doesn't help their image either.

And we have a short 'Only in India' section.

• Where when we couldn't find a restaurant and called them for directions, they told us to wait where we were and an escort showed up a few minutes later.
• Where when you ask for directions, they will say they don't know, but tell you to go straight anyways.
• Where depending how long your shorts are, you may or may not be allowed inside. Above knees is a no go, but two inches longer and you are good to go. Also Fedora hats are considered as a sign of respect as they cover your head but going without covering your hair is disrespectful.
• Where foreigners pay 10-25 times the price and Indian pays for entry to the major landmarks. How do they know who is a foreigner? They ask you to prove you are Indian if you look 'suspicious'. I got 'carded' once. Thankfully I had my Indian DL on me. N.E. Indians probably have a hard time with this racial profiling. One group of Asian looking teens abused a guard in Hindi and told him that that should prove their Indianess.
• Where you take pictures of a monkey and then are pestered to no end for the 'monkey picture fee' by the handler.
• Where the horn is assumed to be a sonic blaster that will magically disintegrate all the traffic in front of you.

And a few observations and tips for fellow tourists.

• Get ready to be pestered for tips everywhere. If you look remotely touristy, or have a foreigner in your group, get ready to be badgered for tips all the time. We once got asked for tips at bathroom in a restaurant because someone handed us soap and paper towels. Be prepared to ignore everyone.
• For some reason, we always asked a foreigner to take pictures of our group. Either because they were probably least likely to run away with our camera or they looked most competent.
• Get a cab for the day as that will work out cheaper than on demand cabs and autos and also, less hassle than driving and parking your own car.
• Stay alert at all times. You never know what random scene or fun experience you might miss. Also it is good for your personal safety.
• Don't have too tight of a schedule. Traffic might be bad, lines might be long. Plus, rushing through might result in a sterile experience. India is about feeling it. And feelings take time.
• Be polite and patient with authorities. Everyone likes feeling important. Budget some time and energy for that purpose.
• Be careful when paying in cash. You might be 'accidentally' short changed. Despite Indians' prowess in Math, for some reason you might get Rs 100 back when you pay Rs 1000 for a Rs 400 item. If possible, provide exact change.

Go ahead, make your own adventure. India is calling, where are you? YOLO!

Thanks to my friends Niki, Nikhil and Sivram for making this trip so much fun.

Who Wants To Be A MILLIONAIRE?

One of my goals for 2013 was to become more financially savvy. Yeah, the eternal goal to retire at 40 and sip cocktails on a beach, while getting a shoulder massage. With that definitely achievable goal in mind, I set out out to become financially literate first and maybe savvy later. I had simple goals to begin with. One, don’t lose money. Two, stay ahead of inflation. Three, maybe actually make money.

  One of the reasons investing right away is important is because of the power of compounding. Your money will double every 10 years if you get a 7% annual return. Or for the dreamers, it will double every 7 years if you get a 10% annual return. Now those are some sweet numbers. But numbers can work against you too. Yeah, no finance without numbers. Don’t lose money. If you had $100 and you lost $25. Now you have $75, a loss of 25%. But to get back to $100, you need a gain of 33% on the $75. The difference between loss and gain percentages gets worse for higher losses. Hence, stick to conservative sensible investments to reduce the risk of major initial losses which can seriously set you back.

Getting started. Yes, the internet has all the answers, including how to make dogs chase their tails. But when it comes to investing, there is a lot of BS out there and frankly it is not worth the effort sifting through BS, unless it is your thing. Investopedia is a good site to explain the meaning of terms and is a handy reference guide. But only books could give an orderly instruction to a blank slate like me. The following are the books I have read so far, in the order I read them.

1) Start Late, Finish Rich - This is a good and easy read for the uninitiated. It will introduce you to some investment ideas, whet your appetite for the subject and I think, most importantly, inspire you to begin.

2) The Intelligent Investor - It is the most well known investment book. Warren Buffett himself recommends it. It is well written, textbook style but tinder dry. Sometimes I had to force myself to read and get through a chapter. For completeness sake I read everything, even though I was not interested in some topics. The commentary on each chapter is an easier read. If you really must, you could skip the main chapter and read the commentary instead. This book definitely has all the instructions on how to become an investor and not a speculator.

3) Rich Dad Poor Dad - An epic waste of time. It is not even a feel good book. Those four hours of my life spent on reading it are never coming back. Well, none of my life is ever coming back, but you get the point.

I plan to read One Up On Wall Street next. But for now, let’s delve into what I have learned. First, close your mind to the mindless bragging by your friends who always seem to make money. One of my friends has sold all his stock three times in the last month or so. Every time the stock market goes up, he says he sells ALL his shares and he is waiting for the next crash. How can you sell all your shares every month? Buy low and sell high is a great idea, in theory or rather in your dreams. The question is, who has the crystal ball that will tell me when is low and when is high? Remember hindsight is 20/20, sometimes 20/10. And there are folks who go, I had told you to buy Tesla when it was $30, now it is $130. So Mr. Smartpants, did you put your money where your mouth was? Nope. Don’t listen to people who don’t bet on their own instincts.

The million dollar question, literally, is how to make money then? I concluded that I don’t have the time or the motivation to spend my leisure time on researching companies, reading earnings reports, calculating P/E ratios, etc. I am not making excuses. I know that if I don’t invest the time in researching, I cannot expect stupendous returns on my financial investments. So I settled for the conservative, semi-lazy person approach. I diversify between bonds and stocks. And diversify by industry in each of those categories. The easiest way to diversify is by buying mutual funds and ETF’s. And don’t forget that blue chip companies pay dividends. Some folk get excited only by looking at the increase of stock price over time. Dividends can and will bolster the ROI too. Also, read up on the concept of ‘dollar cost averaging’ if you are worried about market swings. The market has more mood swings, for the most obscure reasons, than women.

I could talk about gold, real estate, foreign currency, etc. as investment vehicles. But I think I will stick to level 1 for now, and that is stocks and bonds. Roll the dice, let’s partake in the great game of capitalism.

“The mountains are calling and I must go.”

A night under stars, a walk in a forest, a dip in a lake, a chat around a fire. As John Muir said, “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” The sheer beauty of nature will converse with your soul and fill you with a sense of wonder. The tiniest wildflower to the grandest mountains can energize the spirit. Go on a day hike, or a camping trip or a backpacking trip.

I enjoy a good backpacking trip. You carry only what you absolutely need and it's amazing how everything you need, including food, can fit in a backpack. It strips away the excesses in our lives. It makes you wonder, why do we have so much stuff. You connect with nature, you connect with your creator. You are far away from everything. Importantly, no phones and internet. You can check out Little Skippy's baby pics or find out what the NSA is up to  when you get back home. You are present in the moment at that place. You have the time and the attention span to see the sun set slowly behind a mountain or into the ocean, to feel the wind, to smell the forest, to hear the birds. You feel small sleeping under the galaxy of stars. You hear the silence of the night. The simplicity and the solitude can open your mind to new perspectives on life, to being more thankful for your blessings, to appreciate the unappreciated, to delve on the mysteries of the universe. Life need not be a to-do list everyday. Let it be a kaleidoscope of dazzling colors. Life is not a problem to be solved, but a mystery to be lived.

 

A few practical notes for aspiring backpackers. First, safety. After all, you are in the wilderness. Respect nature. Never keep food or cosmetics in tent at night. You don't want a bear or a raccoon to be your tent buddy. Never hike alone. There is always a chance something might go wrong. Be prepared. Then there is the gear – tent, sleeping bag, backpack, stove etc. Also, physical fitness. You should be able to carry a  40lb pack for a few miles without seeing black spots in front of your eyes. Learn to read maps and use a compass, in case your GPS fails you. If this sounds too much, try car camping and do day hikes. They will still give you opportunities to sit by a lake and watch the ripples go everywhere and nowhere. You can watch the clouds forever journeying as the mountains watch as mute spectators. You can listen to the trees whispering and the waterfalls roaring. You can enjoy the warmth and peace that flows from a crackling campfire. You will realize some of the best things in life are free.

We are part of the earth and it is part of us. Go out there, connect with your ancestors and with your descendents. “The mountains are calling and I must go.” – John Muir

Rediscover Catholicism – Giving reasons to believe.

Matthew Kelly's book is about an ancient faith in the modern world. It is about something profound, something deep, laid out in simple terms. It is a handbook about finding and living the faith. It is about change, change for the better. It is about becoming the best version of yourself. I hope this blog post will inspire you to read the book.

The Catholic Church, despite our faults and failings, is an incredible institution. But we have forgotten our story. Every single day the Catholic Church feeds, clothes and houses more people, takes care of more sick people, visits more prisoners and educates more people than any other institution on earth. Almost the entire western world is educated because of the church's pioneering role in universal education. Our history is not without blemish and our future will not be without blemish. But there is a genius in Catholicism, if we just take the time and make the effort to humbly explore it. Kelly states that there is nothing wrong with Catholicism that can't be fixed with what is right with Catholicism; if you and I are not part of the solution, we are part of the problem; and if 67 million Catholics in the US stepped it up a notch, something incredible would happen. Granted that the faith is old, but does that make it irrelevant? If you had an ancient treasure map, would you throw it away just because it is old? No. The age of the map doesn't matter. What matters is whether or not it leads to treasure.

The basic tenet of Catholicism is that we were created to love and be loved. But the modern philosophies of individualism (what's in it for me), hedonism (pleasure is the ultimate goal of life) and minimalism (minimum effort, maximum reward) have taken over. We confuse pleasure with happiness. Our physical needs and desires dominate our existence. We have forgotten the other three aspects of the human person – emotional, intellectual and spiritual. Kelly calls for discipline in our lives and writes that freedom without discipline is impossible. Discipline is a faithful friend who will introduce you to your true self. Discipline is the worthy protector who will defend you from your lesser self. And discipline is the extraordinary mentor who will challenge you to become the best version of yourself and all God created you to be.

Faith in the teachings of Christ is fundamental. If you allow the values and principles of the gospel to guide you, it will turn out for the best. It will not always turn as you wish, but you will be a better person for having lived the gospel in that situation, and because of that, your future will be richer. Faith is about walking humbly with God, allowing Him to take your hand and lead you. But too often, we want to race off ahead of our loving father, running frantically in all directions. We don't want to miss anything. We want to experience everything that this life has to offer, so we run here and there in search of happiness - but we are always left yearning for more. Faith is about God's will. Stop trying to put together a master plan for your life and for your happiness. Instead seek out the Master's plan for your life and for your happiness. Faith in the teaching of the church is important. Those willing to learn from others mistakes can live with the wisdom of the old from the earliest ages. It is not necessary to make all the mistakes yourself to learn about life, yourself and others.

On sin and repentance

Repent means turn back to God. It's not about condemnation. It is about apologizing. If we never apologize in our relationship with God, that relationship will suffer the fate that so many modern human relationships are suffering. Self introspection will get you to know yourself. The gifts of self knowledge include freedom from the world's image of who you are and an unquenchable compassion for others. The more you get to know yourself and your sinfulness, the more you are able to understand others and be tolerant of their faults, failings, flaws, addictions and brokenness. Understanding leads to peace. Learn to prize the peace in your soul above all else.

On prayer

Kelly's prayers are very practical. First, he prays to make sense of things. He also prays because he wants to live life deeply and deliberately. Thirdly, he prays to build up the kind of inner density required to prevent the culture from swallowing him up. Our world has been filled with noise, and as a result, we can no longer hear the voice of God in our lives. We should make a daily commitment to enter into the classroom of silence and listen to God. And remember, prayer doesn't change God, prayer changes us.

The Mass is the highest form of prayer. The Mass is not about whom you sit next to. Its not about which priest says mass. Its not about what you wear or who is there. Mass is not about the music. Its not even about the preaching. It is about gathering as a community to give thanks to God for all the blessings he fills our lives with. It is about receiving the body and blood of Christ, not just physically, but spiritually. Perhaps you have been receiving the Eucharist physically every Sunday for your whole life. Next Sunday, prepare yourself, be conscious of the marvel, the wonder, the mystery, and receive spiritually. And the prayers of the Mass are profound and beautiful. Rediscover them.

The present and the future.

We have our problems. These problems can fill the heart with a great sadness, but they should not lead to despair. They should be seen as opportunities for us to change, grow, and become more effective at meeting people where they are and leading them to where God calls them to be. There are calls for change. The environment changes, the culture changes, people change, but the truth does not change; the supernatural realities of faith, hope and love do not change; and God does not change.

What do we need to do.

First and foremost, we need to inspire people. We have failed non believers. We have failed to communicate the value of living a life of virtue and faith. Remember, “Don't tell them, show them.” We have to communicate through the authenticity of our lives. Jesus didn't promise an easy way. He promised that we would be ridiculed, prosecuted and unappreciated as he himself was, but that we would nonetheless experience joy and fullness of life. We have to take the Church to the people. We have a duty to study and know the issues that turn Catholics away, so we can build the necessary bridges of truth and knowledge that will allow them to return to the fullness of our ancient and beautiful faith. If you want to grow in faith, identify the teachings of the Catholic church that you find most difficult to understand and accept, then read about it. Study that issue.

There will always be questions. Questions are an integral part of the spiritual journey. The temptation is to despise questions and the uncertainty they represent. But uncertainty is a spiritual gift designed to help us grow. From time to time, great questions arise in our hearts and our minds. When that happens to you, don't let your heart be troubled. Learn to enjoy uncertainty. Learn to love the questions. The questions are life.

The bottom line, the ultimate aim, the purpose of life is to love. What really counts is not money, or titles, or possessions, but the way we love others. Let us rediscover life through the Catholic Church.

Bike Tour - Crater Lake and NorCal

“The wonders of the world are only made more magnificent when you approach them from the humble perch of a bicycle.” - Bound South. True that. Biking in Crater Lake NP, the Redwoods NP and along Hwy 1 in northern California lets you experience some of the most breathtaking scenery up close, personal and at a meditative pace at which you can truly soak in it's magnificence.

I took the train up to Klamath Falls OR, hopped on my bike and rode to Crater Lake and then on to Crescent City and south along the coast to Santa Rosa. I have wanted to do this for a long time, to ride my bicycle for days on end with the open road in front of me. Over a period of 9 days, I covered about 630 miles with 45,000 feet of elevation gain. And I was rewarded with sights and experiences of a lifetime.

Being at Crater Lake is like being inside a postcard. The serene blue waters with gray mountains in the background are a mesmerizing sight. Riding through the forests of Oregon calmed my mind and cleared my lungs. And then the Giants of NorCal, the Redwoods. They are a sight to behold, tall and stately, yet quiet and gentle.

And the scent and sounds compliment what you see, to create something nearest to perfection. Riding by the ocean is always a joyful experience. The vast blue expanse, the cool breeze, the waves tirelessly carving away at the rugged cliffs, the tiny sandy beaches, the muted lighthouses, everything about it speaks to the soul. A sunset over the ocean is timeless in its beauty. The rolling farmland interspersed with tiny towns took me far far away from my daily routine.

The people you meet along the way is surely one of the highlights of a bike tour. Troy, a fun guy from Seattle, became my riding buddy for the second half of my trip. He was riding from Seattle to Big Sur. And there was this British couple in their early 20's who were hitch hiking and camping their way down the coast. I had thought that that happened only in books. Then there was this guy who hardly carried anything besides his sleeping bag. He slept under a tree or the stars every night. And there was this guy from South Carolina who biked across the US, passing through the Nevada deserts in June! And he didn't have a stove.

He cooked all his meals with fire made from firewood he gathered every evening. The list is endless. There are a lot of fun, quirky, adventurous, insane people out there.

My daily routine started at the crack of dawn. Eat breakfast, wash, pack up and hit the road. Then pedal the whole day with breaks for food and pictures. Reach a campsite in the evening, set up camp, dinner and hang out with others there or go exploring the state park or national park. Hit the sack at 9pm. Food; well, the days were filled with endless eating. Breakfast, followed by hourly snacks of trail mix, peanut butter and bagels, and fruit. I usually had two lunches at some deli or cafe. And then more snacks, followed by dinner at campsite.

The main daily activity of the trip was biking of course. Hours of pedaling through beautiful countryside and small towns. I liked the sound of my tires on the road when I was cruising along. Mile markers were the faithful companions. Of course, it was not all cruising. Uphills always lurked around the corner. Even the smallest uphill is killer if you are not patient. Use granny gears and great granny gears and the steepest climb will be overcome in due time. There were numerous occasions when I had to put mind over matter and keep going.

“End of Lane” signs on the uphills usually signified end of climbs and were much looked forward to. And sometimes I didn't look forward to the downhills either. The toil of the uphill would leave me drenched in sweat which would freeze me as I whizzed downhill. And since drag is proportional to velocity squared, the steep downhills are a major waste of energy.

The trip went to plan as my bike and body did great. I used the Oregon DOT, Adventure Cycling and Krebbs maps to plan my trip. These maps help you get off the highway when possible and take you along scenic routes. They also provide additional information about campsites, towns and services, elevation profiles, etc. which is useful when on the road. Smart phones might not work at most places as cellphone network coverage is quite poor.

A couple of things that I would do differently, given a chance. Do not camp at Del Norte SP. It is a lovely park, but the campsite is so far down in the valley, that it took me close to an hour to get back on the highway the next day. Secondly, less daily mileage would be better for my body and also give room for weather and mechanical issues, if any. Something like 60-65 miles a day would fit my level better.

I am glad I was tougher than I thought I was. Maybe that's because I simply had to be. I think a lot of life is like that. The edge of toughness can be dulled by too much comfort. Get out there. Life is an adventure, dream it and live it.